When well fed and with adequate UV light, the Bearded Dragon is a robust and healthy creature, typically living for 8-12 years, sometimes as long as 15. However, like many reptiles, they will try to hide illness or injury. The first hazard to deal with is the substrate. Impaction is a problem in which some indigestible substance becomes trapped in the intestines and prevents proper flow through the digestive system. The best substrate is a matter of some controversy, but everyone will agree that the following are bad. The corn cob can cause impaction and develop fungi and bacteria. The walnut shell is sharp and can also cause impaction. Calcisand and Vita-Sand taste good for bearded dragons, especially those that need more calcium, but they cannot be digested and cause shock. Repti Bark, wood chips and original alligator sand can cause impaction. There are brands that claim to be biodegradable and safe to consume, but these should be viewed with suspicion. Bearded dragons have very short intestinal tracts and therefore have a lot of trouble metabolizing their food. Solid surfaces are usually better and easier to clean. Don’t use heated rocks to keep the enclosure warm, as dragons have trouble sensing heat under their bodies, leading to burns.
When swallowed, they will often straighten and extend their hind legs and act as if they are paralyzed. This is not the same as basking, if the lizard can walk, it is just acting normally. Increasing the heat or soaking in hot water could induce a bowel movement, but it is unlikely to save the creature. The best treatment is to limit the size of the food and avoid dangerous substrates.
The next step is proper nutrition. Insects fed to bearded dragons should be gut-laden or well-fed before being fed to lizards. Mealworms are a poor choice for dragon food, and only newly molted white larvae are appropriate. At least one meal every other day should include a calcium supplement, sprinkled or sprinkled on the food. Some recommend a weekly multivitamin, but too much vitamin A can be fatal, so don’t overdo it. You want the right amount of nutrients, not as much as possible.
Vegetables should be sprayed with water before feeding to provide moisture, and animals should be sprayed on the face periodically: hatchlings twice a day, adults several times a week. If you lick up all the water, reapply until it stops. Some can learn to use a shallow pan, but will need immediate, daily cleaning if they fail.
Animals will need sunlight, ultraviolet light, or dietary supplements to provide D3. Sunlight through a window will not work. If bulbs are used, keep them very close to the enclosure, within a few inches, and replace them twice a year, even if they don’t burn out.
Do not house dragons with other reptiles, and all new reptiles must be quarantined. Wash your hands before and after handling each reptile, and between handling reptiles kept in different enclosures. Keeping the enclosure clean is also important for your pet’s health.
Remember, you should always consult a veterinarian before treating an animal, and many problems are simply not within the normal owner’s ability to manage.
Coccidiosis is an infection commonly and incorrectly called a worm infestation. Coccidia are single-celled organisms that live in the intestinal walls and can cause diarrhea. Most dragons are normally infected, but only when the lizards are weak does this become a danger. Foul-smelling or loose intestines instead of hard pellets are typical symptoms. Treatment usually involves a sulfa-type antibiotic. Quarantine the animal and make sure it is well hydrated. Do not allow him to refuse food or water. A typical method is to use a syringe or dropper to feed the animal, but another method is to drip food or water up the animal’s nose. It will lick the substance off its “dirty” nose, consuming it. Many vets recommend preventative deworming once or twice a year, just like you would a dog. However, others are coming to believe that this can harm the dragon’s health and that treatment should only be done when symptoms are detected. This may be a contributing factor to “yellow fungus.”
What is called the “yellow fungus” is believed to be more than one type of infection. The current belief is that many of the infected animals were treated with Albon, a common antibiotic. This is believed to have killed off the good bacteria in the digestive tract, allowing yeast and fungal growth to survive in the feces, which then attach to the lizard’s skin. Whatever the cause, it is infectious and lethal. It is recommended that a priobiotic treatment follow any antibiotic regimen. Some known cases occurred in animals that were never treated with antibiotics but were kept in natural soil. The treatment regimen currently believed to be the best treatment is topical Nolvosan, keep it away from the eyes, then a rinse followed by treatment with lamisil. This should cover the infected area and surrounding areas, with another lamisil treatment every 24 hours. Acidophiliz+ is a well-regarded priobiotic, although others exist. Oral treatments should be supervised by the veterinarian and during the treatment period, do not feed the lizard fruits. Treatment should be extended two weeks after the last symptoms are observed. Use a solid substrate during treatment and clean it daily. A complicating factor is that it takes more than ten days to culture the infection, and this often delays treatment until it is too late.
We know little about adenoviruses. Quarantine any reptile suspected of infection, as this can kill an entire collection. Unfortunately, the only sure way to determine if the creature has an adenovirus is an autopsy. Most of the infected dragons had a history of lethargy, lack of appetite, and diarrhea. They are more likely to be young than old. The symptoms are frustratingly vague. Some infected reptiles recover, others die. The mechanism that the virus uses to reach the host is unknown and no treatments have yet been developed.
Bearded dragons may be infested with mites. Mites are extremely difficult to kill and require a double attack. The animal and the habitat must be treated. The animal should receive a dilute betadine bath. Allow the lizard to drink his fill before adding the betadine. If the animal defecates, drain the tub, clean it out, and repeat. The area around the eyes and nose should be treated with mineral oil after bathing. Discard all substrate, bag it for removal, and scrape the corners and edges of the enclosure to remove all mites, eggs, and mite feces. Clean or spray the enclosure with soapy water and remove the soap. Then use a 1/30 mix of bleach for 10 minutes. Bake wood furniture for 2-3 hours at 250 degrees, longer for thicker pieces. Boil the rocks for half an hour. Anything too large for these treatments should be treated with the bleach solution for 8 hours. Clean or clean anything else using these treatments as appropriate for the substance. Use No-Pest strips or flea collars for cats in enclosures, and seal the tank or enclosure as airtight as possible. Leave this for at least three hours. Pack up and remove all cleaning materials for disposal, and let the enclosure sit for at least 8 hours before returning the dragons.
Egg bonding is a potentially lethal problem. This most often occurs with a first clutch with infertile eggs. Please discuss this with your vet as there are several possible causes. To avoid this, the best plan is to ensure that the female is of sufficient age, size and health to breed and that she has received the best possible diet with the necessary supplements. Protect the animal from stress and ensure that a suitable area for laying eggs is available.
Bearded dragons are vulnerable to respiratory problems. This can include blocked nasal passages due to mucus, rough breathing through the mouth but no ventilation due to heat. The usual causes are excess humidity and cold. Contact your vet for treatment.
Too little vitamin D3 and calcium can lead to metabolic bone disease. Symptoms include tremors, spasms or stiffness of the extremities (especially the hind legs), separation of the mouth, and difficulty chewing food. If caught early, sunlight and supplements can handle the situation.
Keep in mind that it is also possible to harm your dragons by over-supplementing, as some nutrients are dangerous if the supply is too large for the body to handle. Vitamin A toxicity usually results in swelling of the throat and eyes, followed by swelling of the body and lethargy.
Hibernation occurs naturally. From December to February, start to reduce the length of the day by controlling the illuminated enclosure. Gradually reduce the lighting period to 8-10 hours and lower the temperature to about 75-85 degrees during the day and 60 degrees at night. Provide material to dig a nest. Make sure the dragon is healthy and has no undigested food. If the dragon is awake during the hibernation period, it is safe to provide small amounts of food. After about two months, start increasing the temperature and light period to get back to normal.