So we have all heard of Goa’s party spots and we have all heard of its ancient churches. We know Goa’s seafood is delicious, alcohol is cheap and plentiful, South Goa is teeming with expensive resorts, and Panjim ferry rides are fun. If you think about it, Goa is the quintessential tourist destination, which has been written about to death, exhausted beyond boredom.
Think again. Look past the crowds in Baga and Calangute to poke around inside. Once you get to the place where the drone of the two-wheelers dies down, look around. You will see enchanting low hills on the horizon, rice fields stretching into green expanses, and backdrops dotted with coconut palms.
Panjim, the capital city, is often ignored by tourists, or is only used to communicate with the state. A lot of administrative work goes on in Panjim and it’s noisier, more polluted, less interesting than the rest of the state. But venture into Fontainhas, Panjim’s old quarter, and you’ll see quaint Portuguese bungalows with colorfully painted columns. Magnificent chapels here have windows decorated with marigold flowers and some have clay lamps that burn outside in an intriguing mix of cultures and religious practices.
31st January Road is one of those places. Flanked by neoclassical bungalows in shades of butter yellow, dull blue, and faded olive green on one side, and Duck Creek on the other, the cobblestone streets of this area are more reminiscent of a European village than an Indian capital. The area is full of alternative art galleries and heritage hotels, places that preserve their vintage furniture and architecture to give you a window into a past that once was.
Portuguese was the official language of Goa until the 1960s. This is still evident in the quaint nameplates that hang outside these bungalows, delicately carved from wood, written in great curlicue letters. Drive along Panjim’s main road past Miramar beach and stop for a meal at ‘Mama’s Kitchen’, a restaurant entirely dedicated to preserving original Goan recipes, home cooked food, with ingredients ranging from vinegar to palm wine, beef and dried peppercorns.
Go further south to discover the hidden side of Goa. Small rivers cross the paths here to meet the sea. There are places where vegetation blocks sunlight and forms canopies for you to drive under, where small towns have rural lifestyles that haven’t been affected by the tourist commercialization the state has been witnessing. Everywhere there are small bodies of water with lotuses and water lilies. These places in Goa have an excess of green.
The vegetation opens up to white sands and a blue, blue sea. Skip the tour bus-friendly beaches and head to secluded beaches. Betalbatim, Utorda, Bogmalo and Velsao are spectacular and spotlessly clean. Free of hawkers, some of these beaches are dotted with small shacks serving spicy vindaloo and Manchurian gobhi with beer, made from barley or a variety of fruit. Just pick your choice.
If you are visiting Goa for the first time, by all means get a massage at Calangute. Pick up trinkets from vendors in Baga and go shake a leg at Tito’s. But don’t forget to look further afield to discover these hidden spots in this beautiful and tranquil state.